Tally-ho, Giambattista Valli! The Moncler Gamme Rouge show is never one to shy from camp theatrics, and this season we romped through the world of the elite equestrian.
Indeed a glossy fox-fur safety helmet is not wholly practical (nor is the irony lost. . .), but Moncler’s chic horsewoman will need stylish, yet sturdy clothes for the hack. Valli delivered these in abundance. Quilted warm-up jackets, heritage checks, and rugged tweeds came with sporting attitude, and he gave the opulent, embroidered nineteenth-century riding jacket some 21st-century polish with slick patent croc panels and collars. The volte-face jacket is also clearly having a moment, and a tufted green mohair coat with lustrous fur back will guarantee a memorable entrance and exit come fall.
The sophisticated techniques employed in the outerwear were balanced by the youthful strut of Savile Row fabric kilts, plastic skater skirts, and shearling minis: the perfect way to show off toned, coltish legs after a day in the saddle! Accessories to note included dandy little silk twillys, and gumboots that came in plaid and waxed cotton scarf prints.
When our stylish equestrian joins the actual hunt, only a riding habit will do. Whether flocked brocade, multipocketed, or with military gold accents, there were plenty of arresting options to choose from. The parade of red coats were paired with second-skin black jodhpurs, but one can easily see the appeal of draping one of these over a beaded Victoriana evening dress (and there’s a few of them to choose from this season).
With the continued taste for mixing technical performancewear with high fashion, Moncler Gamme Rouge’s refined tenets of equestrian style took the phenomenon up a notch.