Only in Italy does a utilitarian item become a thing of beauty. Moncler, the Milan-based apparel brand that pushes heavy coats in a fashion-forward direction, has opened a standalone shop on Oak Street just in time for winter lows. For years the brand has been at high-end department stores, but this new boutique offers jackets, bags, hats, and shoes in a spot resembling a swanky European ski lodge.
Moncler created its first nylon and feather quilted jacket in 1954. Today it stays true to the technology that originally catered to mountaineers—but, courtesy of Remo Ruffini, who took over as president and creative director in 2003, the company has become more focused on design and fashion. (Handbags and shoes were introduced three years ago.) Ruffini says that while recent designs have an “urban sense,” it is important to remain loyal to the brand’s practical roots. “ ‘Duvet’ is the keyword for Moncler outlet, the secret behind its magic formula,” he says. The company still hand-selects down from France, resulting in a “featherweight garment that takes up a minimal amount of room.” Nylon provides breathability and insulation, and the fabrics are coated to wick away moisture.
The Chicago store will carry a few of the guest-designer “capsule” collections that have been making waves over the last year. “As I wanted to return to the archives, I was looking for designers able to revive Moncler roots, but in a contemporary way,” Ruffini says. The latest collaboration, with the Japanese designer Hiroki Nakamura, debuted in fall 2010 and is based on Moncler jackets from the 1950s and 1960s. Other finds include the classic men’s and women’s slick down jackets in muted tones, an improbably chic down cape, and fur earmuffs.
The Moncler HQ in central Milan is a sexy, black shiny sort of a place threaded through with a mixture of slightly kitsch Alpine and Roman references: on the wall of the reception area hangs a giant picture of grey undulating slopes; on a glistening black coffee table in front of it sits a white faux-ancien sculpture of a horse’s head.
Upstairs on the fourth floor at a meticulously tidy boardroom table sits Remo Ruffini, the neatly attired (navy shirt, navy trousers) 53-year-old chairman and CEO, who 14 years ago saw the possibility in a long-neglected and devalued brand, and turned its brash, colourful down jackets into the ultimate luxury necessity, capitalising on the fashion-ification of skiwear without compromising on technical prowess.
Ruffini is the perfect example of having to live your brand if you want to understand it and see it succeed. He is the personification of Moncler outlet. He grew up by Lake Como (where he still lives with his wife; the couple have two sons, both in their 20s, both working in finance), a short drive from the mountains where he learnt to ski – and to obsess over a niche French winter outfitter called Moncler. He saw its jackets every morning on his way to school; when he was 14 he persuaded his mother to buy him one. The seed was planted. When Ruffini bought the company in 2002 it was, in his words, ‘not in good condition’. Production had been moved to Madagascar, quality was poor, and – crucially for the increasingly style-conscious ski set – there was nothing cool about it. His plan was to take the label, founded near Grenoble at the foot of the French Alps, back to its heyday in the 1950s and ’60s, when it kitted out climbers, eventually producing jackets inspired by feather sleeping bags.
Having attired famed mountaineers, in 1968 Moncler dressed the French Olympic ski team, nudging the brand into public consciousness and marking its move from the slopes to the street.
Ruffini looked at the archives. He revived the distinctive logo (blue and red peaks with a cockerel, and a bold capitalised brand name), moved production to the Veneto area of Italy, and focused on returning its key asset – the down jacket – into pole position. Gradually he brought in collaborators and diversified the brand into several lines – a canny move that sought to offer the world of Moncler to every demographic.
For him, this is all about ‘energy’. ‘I needed different energy and creativity to attract different people,’ Ruffini explains. ‘We don’t have one chief designer. It’s easy for us to talk to different customers. It’s important to understand the mentality of the Chinese and the Americans, because we’re worldwide. They want something consistent but also something new.’ Ruffini says it is important to maintain the classic looks his fans expect, while enticing new customers with fresh looks at the same time. ‘It’s not easy,’ he admits. His strategy is to bring in diverse talents.
Alongside the established sub-brands Moncler Gamme Bleu (the directional high-fashion line led by American designer Thom Browne), Moncler Grenoble (the high-spec technical collection) and Moncler Man (the core collection), this season he introduces Moncler O – a two-season collaboration with cult streetwear label Off-White – plus FriendsWithYou, a capsule collection with the LA-based artist duo of Samuel Borkson and Arturo Sandoval III, inspired by the colourful Japanese artist Takashi Murakami. ‘It was a very happy project,’ says Ruffini. The Off-White venture will have streetwear aficionados heading to Moncler outlet stores in droves. It is a clever appropriation of the brand – the logo is blown up into an oversize rubberised yellow emblem placed on the arm of outsized black down jackets; there are chic grey body warmers and hefty workman’s boots. The collection oozes cool, and firmly casts Moncler as something of a must-have.
For Ruffini it’s the mix that is interesting. He says, ‘In most stores you can find a guy who’s 20 years old buying a jacket, as well as one who’s 70 years old. The mix of energy of different people and ages is something that belongs to us.’ Ruffini’s success is keen: three years ago, when Moncler outlet was floated on the Borsa Italiana stock exchange, he became a billionaire. In the first fiscal half of 2016 Moncler’s revenue is up 17 per cent, to a record €346.5 million. That’s a lot of down jackets. But it’s also testament to his skill at keeping an eye on a volatile luxury market. ‘We’re luxury but we’re not a fashion brand,’ he says. ‘We’re not trying to change our face every season. We do something contemporary but also consistent – products you can use for five to 10 years. We do everything on our own, which is good because we control the process, but it is also tricky…’ The brand has spawned many imitators. ‘It’s not a competition,’ says Ruffini. ‘Down jackets are everywhere, from £15,000 ones at Hermès to some for £80. But we try to be the best in relation to price and quality.’
What makes Moncler so special? ‘It’s not only the product,’ Ruffini says. ‘It’s the marketing idea, too. But the product is important: we go to the best mills in Japan; we have the best feather suppliers. It’s a delicate product but in some ways very simple. The ski collection is very technical. It needs to be lightweight and high-performance – 100 per cent water- and windproof but comfortable at the same time. We work with special stitching. We do it better and better and better.’ The production process is extraordinarily focused: the down is precisely weighed so that jackets carry no more weight than necessary; it is then injected directly into each section of the jacket, which is then finished by hand. There is a reason these are the best.
In this way Ruffini has been able to exploit the summer market for the first time, with an expanded ready-to-wear collection that hits the mark for the stylish sun seeker. An ultra-light summer down jacket is something that can be screwed up in a bag for travelling, to be worn as a layering item when the temperature drops. Damien Paul, head of menswear at Matches Fashion, attests, ‘With the various lines cheap Moncler produces, there really is something for everyone with fantastic quality and craftsmanship.’ Paul also notes that there is more to the company than jackets. ‘Lifestyle pieces often sell out,’ he says. ‘Moncler has also recently invested in accessories and footwear, and this is an area that is growing season upon season’.
Crucially, Ruffini is in essence his own customer. He knows the international Easter-on-the-slopes, summer-on-a-boat crowd because he’s part of it. He knows precisely who is buying cheap Moncler. ‘The mood of skiers has changed drastically in the past five years,’ he says. ‘Before, people going skiing were dressed as skiers. Now they wear everything. They don’t want 25 colours on the jacket. They want wool, so we’ve created a 100 per cent waterproof wool. It’s important to understand what the customer is looking for,’ says the man who during the season drives out to St Moritz every weekend (he notes that 20-30 per cent of skiers he sees have a cheap Moncler jacket, which he finds ‘very satisfying’).
He likes the classic haunts – El Paradiso (‘the view is amazing’), Bella Vista and Badrutt’s Palace hotel (‘I like to go there to have a drink before supper’). Like his customers, Ruffini is exacting. His diary pings with appointments hour by hour. He travels continually. ‘I take one bag on the plane,’ he says of his cabin-sized suitcase (from the Rimowa-Moncler collaboration, of course). Abroad, he spends half his time working, the other half walking (his core exercise since throwing his back out playing squash) and people watching. ‘For me to sit in a bar for two hours and watch whoever comes in is very interesting,’ he says. ‘I see their attitude, what bag they have, the way they move. You feel the mood.’
When in London he stocks up on William Lockie Scottish cashmere. ‘It takes me 10 minutes: I know the size, the colour. I don’t try them on. I know what I’m looking for,’ he says, smiling, before moving on to the next appointment in his buzzing iPhone calendar.
Moncler, a French-Italian lifestyle brand known for its sportswear and down-filled jackets, has opened its first standalone retail shop in Vancouver.
Originally founded as a line of protective camping equipment and coats, Moncler outlet now produces stylish, high-performance gear that’s become a popular pick among alpine athletes and fashionistas alike.
The Vancouver store’s design features dark French wood panelling and slabs of graphic marble on the floors and walls, adhering to the brand’s preference for natural, high-quality materials.
The boutique is Moncler’s second opening in UK. (Its first Canadian store opened in Toronto.) It joins De Beers Diamond Jewellers and Tory Burch in the same luxury retail complex on Thurlow Street.
The store carries Moncler’s complete range of product, including the cheap Moncler Gamme Bleu and Moncler Gamme Rouge collections and two ready-to-wear lines, plus footwear, bags, and leather goods.
Outerwear begins at $1,000 and apparel begins at $300. Moncler is now open at 748 Thurlow Street.
The start of winter has felt like anything but. This December was the warmest on record for many cities around the world; the Weather Channel even reported that this Christmas might very well have been the warmest “of your lifetime.” And brands are paying for it.
AdAge wrote that retailers lost $185 million in sales in November alone, and BuzzFeed found that many companies are being forced to apply steep discounts to jackets, coats, and scarves. There’s one notable exception though. The luxury outerwear category — specifically Canada Goose and its French rival Moncler, two high-end coat brands that have seen remarkable growth over the last few years — won’t be taking much of a hit.
“It’s warm out, but the fashionistas are all wearing their Canada Goose,” WWD deputy editor Arthur Zaczkiewicz told the Guardian last month. “They’re sweating, but they’re doing it. Fashion trumps the weather.”
“While the warmer weather has been unhelpful to the sales of outerwear, the retailers mostly affected are those in the middle market,” says Neil Saunders, an analyst at Conlumino, explaining that mid-market stores are where consumers go to impulse-buy coats when the weather turns cold. “Premium brands like Canada Goose are likely to hold up more as consumers see the purchase of such items as investments.”
For decades, The North Face, Patagonia, and Columbia dominated the outerwear space. If you needed to contend with a harsh (or even semi-harsh) winter climate, outdoor brands you could find at REI were the obvious go-to. Now Canada Goose and Moncler are taking over.
“In terms of luxury, the category that used to be a popular splurge was handbags,” Roseanne Cumella, an analyst with the Doneger Group, adds. “Right now, that category is outerwear.”
Experts point to Moncler as the brand that instigated this shift. “Moncler developed more modern and feminine silhouettes in their traditional puffer coats, as well as spearheaded successful collaborations with fashion designers such as Sacai and Thom Browne,” says Jennifer Sunwoo, Barneys’ executive vice president of designer ready-to-wear.
Moncler has been around since 1952, when it was known as a manufacturer of tents, sleeping bags, and anoraks. Two years later, founder René Ramillon applied the brand’s signature quilting techniques to outerwear and began selling coats. Moncler’s roots were in mountain sports: the company supplied gear for the Italian expedition to K2 in 1954 and the French expedition to Makalù in 1955. It became a bonafide European favorite after outfitting the French ski team for the 1968 Winter Olympics in Grenoble (it later named one of its product lines after the city, known as the “capital of the Alps.”). As the Telegraph notes, Moncler jackets were also popular with European teenagers during the 1980s, but “by 1999 that buzz had faded and Moncler’s sub-cultural credentials were already a matter of historical record.”
Moncler awoke from its slumber in 2003, when entrepreneur Remo Ruffini bought the company and began transforming it into a proper fashion brand. Ruffini’s first order of business was to sever existing licensing deals that had allowed Moncler coats to be made in factories all around the world; Ruffini decided all production would take place exclusively in Europe. He also halted the brand’s distribution in sporting goods stores, instead creating partnerships with upscale retailers to transform the brand’s reputation and take the Moncler coat from practical ski gear to coveted luxury item.
Ruffini cemented the brand’s new image when he launched the company’s first women’s line, Gamme Rouge, in 2006. It was initially designed by former Valentino designer Alessandra Facchinetti and then by Giambattista Valli, and has been shown during Paris Fashion Week since 2008. In 2009, Moncler launched a men’s collection for the line designed by Thom Brown. In the years since, it has teamed up with Nicolas Ghesquière and Pharrell Williams for collaborations, and had campaigns shot by Bruce Weber and Annie Leibovitz.
“Our CEO has put more style into the coats, and that’s what pushed us into the fashion industry,” Alex, a sales associate at Moncler’s Soho store in New York City, says on a recent evening. The space is jam-packed with shoppers despite the curiously warm temperatures outside. In-store displays — illuminated photos of snowcapped mountains, mannequins wearing ski helmets and goggles — help stir enough cold-weather excitement that customers are able to look past the price tags. Moncler jackets can cost more than $2,000; it sells beanies for $465.
“They don’t just use that same, standard plastic outside layer that everyone uses for puffy jackets,” posits Andrew, a musician from London who’s browsing the store. “They have more intricate patterns and fabrics. They really do more with a coat than the average brand. Like, when I think of myself wearing this coat, I think of Bond, jumping out of a helicopter, skiing down the mountain in front of avalanche — in a Moncler.”
“I think people like the fashion aspect of Moncler outlet online, but there’s also a lot of technology that goes into this jacket,” Alex continues, lecturing to a group of eager shoppers. “We use Japanese nylon, which is very fine, so you will rarely, if ever, see a feather come out of a stitch. We use 90 percent down, 10 percent feather, which is the best ratio on the market right now. That means wind cannot go through the coat, and the coat is much lighter than other companies’, but is a lot warmer too.”
By the time Moncler celebrated its 60th anniversary in 2012, it was considered the hottest outerwear brand on the market. W called it the “the crème de la crème of goose-down-filled jackets.” Suzy Menkes wrote that the brand was turning “duck jackets into swans.” The London Times hailed Moncler as “the new Burberry.” Sales soared from 45 million euros in 2003 to 489 million euros in 2012, according to Reuters.
Moncler’s success hit new heights in 2013 when it went public on the Italian stock market, in what many considered the most successful European IPO of the year. The company has opened 62 more stores since then, bringing its total to 184 as of June (166 of which are directly operated by the brand), with a dozen more to come this year. Revenue has climbed to $759.7 million.
While the brand is aggressively expanding into areas like China, Russia, and Japan — the Tokyo store that opened in Ginza in September has “people lining up all day outside,” according to WWD — its expansion focus has been on the United States. In 2010, the brand had one free-standing store in the US; it now has 14, including one in Honolulu, of all places. This expanded retail footprint has contributed to its visibility, though Drake wearing a cheap Moncler coat in his video for “Hotline Bling” certainly helped too. Moncler has made it.
“Moncler is the ultimate luxury purchase,” says Jennifer Denime, a florist from Delaware shopping at the Soho store. “I love everything European, so I have several Moncler jackets. They are light, warm, and fitted, and they do more for you than the average jacket. They are sexy.”
— Erdem makes the quilted jacket a thing of fantastical beauty in his limited-edition collection for Moncler, says Carolina Issa
This will be a month to remember for one of my favourite designers, and fellow Montrealer, Erdem Moralioglu.
Along with the madness that is preparing for his upcoming spring/summer 2017 shows all around the world, September sees a series of firsts for the designer. Not only has he opened his first store after 10 years with his own label – on Mayfair’s South Audley Street, it’s a truly beautiful expression of all that his brand stands for – but he is also about to launch a collaboration with Moncler Outlet, the French-Italian quilted jacket maestro.
In this playful, limited-edition collection, Erdem follows in the footsteps of Alessandra Facchinetti and Sacai’s Chitose Abe, two other lauded credible creative directors who were cannily brought on board to breathe new life into an iconic, but let’s face it, pretty simple winter staple. It’s all part of Remo Ruffini’s genius plan to resuscitate Moncler outlet as a super brand. Previously, the puffer jacket was worn more for its snug utility than its style on the slopes. But Ruffini’s secret sauce has turned the jacket and its recognisable logo into a desirable fashion item you can wear anywhere, with a luxury price tag to boot.
Thus for the last several autumn/winter seasons, Moncler has created a limited-edition capsule collection alongside the myriad of other ranges it releases (its sub-labels include Moncler Gamme Rouge, the haute couture line currently designed by Giambattista Valli and shown in Paris; cheap Moncler Gamme Bleu, designed by Thom Browne; and Moncler Grenoble, all sitting next to the main cheap Moncler online). The latest, unveiled in stores this month, is Erdem’s one-off capsule collection entitled Moncler E.
Eschewing Moncler’s signature utilitarian quilting, Erdem’s take on outerwear is seriously romantic and fantastical. Imagine if the Russian imperial family had made it to the 1960s instead of coming to a sticky end in the 1020s and were on a winter escapade to the Arctic, travelling in the royal carriages of the Orient Express…you get the picture.
Erdem has managed to create a dramatic outerwear range by using fabrics such as jacquard and cloqué, embellished with embroideries and sophisticated details such as Swarovski crystals; fit for a princess or even us mere mortals. Fox fur and shearling are luscious details, while the silhouettes are highly constructed shapes with clear-cut geometric lines. These pieces would have kept Nicole Kidman equally snug and stylish between takes while filming The Golden Compass.
With this collaboration, Erdem is demonstrating yet again that he is a master of storytelling. As with each of his own collections, he excels at having a fully-formed journey in his mind’s eye to serve as his imaginative starting point. That’s why it’s so exciting to be packing our suitcases and tagging along with him this September.
The Moncler down jacket king once again announced a joint cross-border, and Off-White c / o Virgil Abloh launch Moncler O men winter special series, the overall inspiration from the North Sea fisherman, launched a series of waterproof, warm clothing, for clammy Taiwan is absolutely easy to do!
Moncler O appear in a special series of men’s winter many marine elements such as life Moncler jackets and vests association created is very special; in a more functional is to spend a lot of ingenuity, wide elastic waist design long shape pants also one classic style of them, is derived from the 19th-century British naval uniform double waterproof material made of cotton drawstring MAC, or a sailor suit and with a retro feel, particularly in the deep scar Ruching French style with pockets to do the design, giving a refined, elegant feel.
This style of clothing design in the Scandinavian nation with the North American fishermen costumes for inspiration, on the eve of the storm clouds across the sky as the printing pattern; also combines street style and exquisite craftsmanship, and added many innovative the fabric material, such as front and back feels like velvet PVC material back through the laminate process Plaid nylon or polyurethane film sealing and so on.
In order to show the spirit of the joint, the most representative Abloh twill FIG decorated with bright yellow silicone made Moncler outlet online repeatedly appears in the design, emphasizing the cross-border co-branded classic.
Tally-ho, Giambattista Valli! The Moncler Gamme Rouge show is never one to shy from camp theatrics, and this season we romped through the world of the elite equestrian.
Indeed a glossy fox-fur safety helmet is not wholly practical (nor is the irony lost. . .), but Moncler’s chic horsewoman will need stylish, yet sturdy clothes for the hack. Valli delivered these in abundance. Quilted warm-up jackets, heritage checks, and rugged tweeds came with sporting attitude, and he gave the opulent, embroidered nineteenth-century riding jacket some 21st-century polish with slick patent croc panels and collars. The volte-face jacket is also clearly having a moment, and a tufted green mohair coat with lustrous fur back will guarantee a memorable entrance and exit come fall.
The sophisticated techniques employed in the outerwear were balanced by the youthful strut of Savile Row fabric kilts, plastic skater skirts, and shearling minis: the perfect way to show off toned, coltish legs after a day in the saddle! Accessories to note included dandy little silk twillys, and gumboots that came in plaid and waxed cotton scarf prints.
When our stylish equestrian joins the actual hunt, only a riding habit will do. Whether flocked brocade, multipocketed, or with military gold accents, there were plenty of arresting options to choose from. The parade of red coats were paired with second-skin black jodhpurs, but one can easily see the appeal of draping one of these over a beaded Victoriana evening dress (and there’s a few of them to choose from this season).
With the continued taste for mixing technical performancewear with high fashion, Moncler Gamme Rouge’s refined tenets of equestrian style took the phenomenon up a notch.
Hugo from net foreign media reports recently learned that the French luxury outdoor brand Moncler recently caught in dire straits situation, because consumers drying out of its newest clothing logo, the design pattern is clearly drawn in the 19th century popular Golliwog doll. And this monster dolls often with extreme racism and discrimination against blacks together.
The controversial picture, also appeared on the Moncler outlet brand handbags, T-shirts and the price of 1150 pounds on both sides of jackets.
Moncler respond insisted picture with monster doll does not matter, it’s just a penguin named Malfi image.
In the apology in, Moncler says: “For the use of any offensive clothing Malfi penguin image caused, we apologize .Malfi by the artistic team FriendsWithYou creative design, the most important implication is the world of friendship.”
Cheap Moncler jackets with brand known, “Malfi” jacket and T-shirt in a website launch, sought after by many celebrities, including the Canadian rapper Drake.
Moncler’s Chief Executive Remo Ruffini, who engineered the renaissance of the Italian skiwear brand, is set to reduce his stake in the company to make way for two new institutional investors.
Since its stock market listing in December 2013, the outerwear group whose Moncler jackets can retail for more than 1,000 euros, has been growing quickly, adding new shops despite a global slowdown in luxury sales.
Ruffini’s indirect stake is set to drop from about 28 percent to 20 percent, in what one analyst saw as a potentially negative development for the stock given Ruffini’s top-notch credentials.
The CEO said in the statement he remained “fully committed to (Moncler’s) long-term success as this step to strengthen further growth prospects clearly demonstrates”.
The new investors will be Singapore-based fund Temasek and Swiss-based travel retail firm Dufry, which will buy a combined stake of 24.4 percent in a new holding company called Ruffini Partecipazioni.
“We welcome the opportunity to work alongside our partner Remo Ruffini and to support cheap Moncler in the long term as it continues its global expansion,” Temasek Senior Managing Director for Europe Luigi Feola said in a statement.
Another top investor in Moncler outlet, Italian fund Tamburi Investment Partners’ (TIP.MI) will exchange its current 14 percent stake in the holding company for a 5 percent direct holding in Moncler.
As a result, the holding company will own 27 percent of Moncler sale, down from 32 percent at present.
Shares in Moncler fell 1.8 percent by 1318 GMT, underperforming a 1.3 percent drop in Italy’s blue-chip stock index .FTMIB. Traders attributed an earlier fall of as much as 5 percent to concerns that Tamburi would sell its stake.
Tamburi said in a separate statement its shares would be distributed in September among the various shareholders in the vehicle that had invested in UK Moncler ahead of its bourse listing.
The agreement, effective from August 3, envisages a three-year lock-up period for the two new investors and a two-year time span for Ruffini.
Temasek has stakes in several companies, including online giant Alibaba (BABA.N) group, Singapore airlines and Spain’s oil refiner Repsol.
This is its first significant investment in an Italian company.
Moncler reported on Wednesday a stronger-than-expected 17 percent rise in first half revenues, boosted by strong growth in mainland China and Japan.
Models walked zig-zag down a runway that was a grassy path of wildflowers for the Moncler Gamme Rouge uk show, wearing looks that were more romantic than sporty. There were beautiful white dresses embroidered in PVC and rebrode mesh or with technical dentelle lace, shiny silver dresses, and white dress coats with black graphic checks and a flocked effect on technical organza and tulle.
For girls who shy away from white, the grey pantsuit in sweatsuit material, the black dresses, and the elegant red dress coat with curved white lines down the front should please. While each piece exhibits a sporty element like zippers or a material specific to sportswear, Giambattista Valli’s collection has all the romance of his namesake label, which makes for one that is both cool and dreamy. Plus! It wouldn’t be a cheap Moncler Jackets show without a bit of showmanship—models walked the runway carrying or wearing fencing helmets and swords, and as a finale, they were joined by a procession of male fencers who lined the runway.